A radiant tapestry of rosy warmth, minty zest, and a touch of lemon brightness.
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Originally from South Africa, Geranium is mainly grown in Morocco, Egypt and China, as well as the island of la Réunion, where the highly prized Bourbon variety can be found. In Grasse, France, Chanel has also experimented with growing Geranium in their fields.
Geranium, or Pelargonium (meaning crane or stork in Greek) graveolens (meaning “strong smelling” in Latin) is an umbrella term for many specimens of the plant. The cultivated flower, most likely a cross between multiple native species, is different from the wild specimens. A symbol of friendship and reconciliation in South Africa, it was used by indigenous communities for its medicinal qualities. According to a Muslim legend, the rose Geranium was born when the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry on a mallow branch. Honoured to have helped him with this task, the mallow started blooming beautiful, fragrant flower and leaves, thus transforming into a Geranium rose.
Rosy, minty and spicy, the Geranium rose has a particularly potent smell with a lemony undertone. With its darker and deeper character, the Bourbon variety has a more distinguishable rose profile than the regular P. graveolens and usually contains less citrus aspects.
When we think of Geraniums, we often picture window sills decorated with beautiful pink or red flowers. And while this is not the same Geranium used in perfumery, the association between the plant and wellbeing is cemented into the collective un/conscious. In aromatherapy studies, P. graveolens was discovered to have “balancing, calming, and uplifting effects”, helping with the regulation of the body's hormonal system, reducing fatigue in nurses in the ICU, and acting as a good antidepressant.
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Geranium’s floral brightness and grounding qualities gently guide the mind to find equilibrium, offering a small act of self-care with profound results. Incorporate the essential oil in your daily routine by using it in a diffuser during meditation or yoga, add a few drops to your bath or simply wear a Geranium rose soliflore (like Geranium Bourbon by Miller Harris or Geranium Odorata by Diptyque), during the day to uplift your energy.
lavender, bergamot, patchouli, rose, carnation, oakmoss, woods, vetiver, sandalwood
Surprisingly, the fragrant oil is not obtained from the Geranium flowers, but from its leaves and stems going through a process of steam distillation right before the flowers have had a chance to bloom. While the essential oil is the more popular product, an absolute can also be obtained, using different solvents. There is a distinct uplifting quality to the scent profile of P. graveolens. Different from most florals, it has a fresh quality that energises the wearer and lends itself to traditionally masculine compositions. In fact, it is a key component of the classic fougère accord (think of Fougère Royale by Houbigant or Rive Gauche Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent), alongside bergamot, lavender and oakmoss. Is also plays an important role in the creation of rose accords, to which it adds a sharp, lemony character or a greener facet.
The most important molecules found in P. graveolens are Citronellol, Nerol, Geraniol and Linalool, so you will find at least some of these components in most synthetic Geranium accords. In Jean-Claude Ellena’s The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur, the author suggests a simple combination of materials: Geraniol, Citronellol, Geranyl Acetate or Citronellyl Formate.
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