The first written records describing the use of lavender in ancient times are attributed to Dioscorides, a Greek military physician serving under Emperor Nero. In his 5-volume work titled “De Materia Medica”, he details that lavender oil was used for calming, to induce sleep, as an insect repellant and to soothe insect bites.

Lavender was a big part of Roman life. Bath waters would be perfumed with lavender oil, to induce a sense of calm. Staying true to the etymology of the word (from Latin, lavare, "to wash”) the Romans would also use it as a perfume and an air freshener. It was also carried by soldiers, who used it to cleanse wounds and burns.

Ancient Egyptians also used lavender for its aromatic properties, notably in the mummification process. Traces of the herb were even found in Tutankhamun’s tomb, which was said to still carry traces of its scent upon opening.

In the Middle Ages, lavender was mostly used by monks and nuns, who were also in charge, by Holy Roman Empire edict (812 AD), with cultivating vegetables, medicinal herbs, flowers and trees. In her 12th century book, “Causes and Cures” (1903), Hildegard of Bingen wrote about lavender, saying the plant offers “pure knowledge and a pure spirit”.

In the Victorian era, lavender grew in popularity, as the English royals became particularly fond of the herb and would scent everything from linens to floors with it. 

Healing and relaxing, a plant of love, serenity and knowledge, used to perfume honey or clean wounds, lavender’s shared history with humankind is marked by utility and grace. 

Aromatic, herbaceous, a bit medicinal, fresh and calming, lavender is one of the most versatile materials in the perfumer’s repertoire. Lavandula angustifolia (sometimes called true lavender) and Lavandula latifolia are the most common types of lavender found in scents.

‍L. angustifolia has a sweet, floral, and herbaceous aroma with soft, balsamic undertones. It is widely cultivated in Provence, France, but also in Italy, England and Bulgaria. L. latifolia, or spike lavender, thrives in warmer climates and delivers a more camphorous scent with green floral notes.

For many of us, lavender is the scent of relaxation and cleanliness. Memories of open windows and laundry drying in the sun, quiet purple fields, a grandmother’s linen closet, a teaspoon of lavender-infused honey in a nice cup of tea when you have a cold or a father’s vintage eau de cologne, all evoke a sense of tranquility, openness and comfort with a touch of nostalgia.

Lavender feels like a moment of grace and healing, like a sigh of relief.

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Lavender essential oil, extracted through steam distillation and defined by a sharp, herbaceous scent profile is the most common material used by perfumers. It is generally considered a top to middle note.

Lavender absolute, on the other hand, is dark green in colour and offers a more realistic lavender scent than the oil.

It is herbaceous and musky, with coumarin facets, and its longevity allows it to be used as a base note.

A key component in the fougère olfactory family, alongside oakmoss and coumarin, lavender gives this type of perfume a fresh floral top. The first of its kind, Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882), is a great example for this category.

Though reworked in 2010 to abide to new IFRA regulations and modern times, it is still a landmark for the fougère family.

Lavender is more often used in traditionally masculine or unisex scents, though there are exceptions, like the now discontinued Lancôme’s Lavandes Trianon, a floral-fruity gourmand, or Mon Guerlain, a woody-amber creation.

The versatility of lavender is one to always consider, when formulating with the precious herb.

Perfumer Julie Massé notes its chameleonic nature for The Perfume Society: “Lavender adds a herb-y note – but interestingly, by adding it to other fragrance notes you can push it towards ‘cool’ herb-y, towards the smell of mint, or you can go in the other direction and push it towards ‘hot’ herb-y, almost spicy, like the scent of a hot summer’s night.”

The key aromatic compounds in lavender include linalool, linalyl acetate, camphor, 1,8-cineole, and terpinen-4-ol. Linalool, a major constituent, provides the sweet, floral heart of lavender, while linalyl acetate adds a fruity, herbaceous facet. Camphor introduces a slightly medicinal note, while 1,8-cineole contributes a cool, camphorous aroma. Terpinen-4-ol adds an earthy nuance. 

Though natural lavender oil remains highly valued in perfumery, synthetic recreations offer important advantages. Jean Claude Ellena, one of the most important perfumers of our time, once said, in an interview for Spiegel: I wanted to use a lavender scent for a perfume and combine it with licorice. So I went to a lavender field nearby – good quality.

But I have my own idea of lavender, and this lavender from the field had elements that deviated from my idea.

So I went to a laboratory and told the chemist there: "There are these small molecules that don't sit well with me." Three hundred separate molecules make up the scent of lavender. The chemist broke the lavender down into its component molecules and removed the ones I didn't want. Then I liked the scent.” 

Synthetic molecules provide consistent quality and can be tailored to the perfumer’s needs and vision. Highlighting specific aspects of the lavender profile becomes possible with specific molecules, which are also generally cost-efficient and highly predictable.